Dryer drum won’t turn.

  • The belt’s broken. Turn the drum by hand. If it turns easy, you have a broken belt, look for contributing causes for the belt to break such as worn drum rollers, damaged felt kit, or stiff idler roller. 

  • The motor’s burned out. Remove belt from motor pulley and start dryer to see if it still does it.

  • The thermal fuse is open. Check continuity with….your ohm meter.


The thing runs but it’s noisy

  • Could be worn drum rollersidler pulley>, or drum front slide kit. Whirlpool/Kenmore problems will usually be in the rear drum rollers or idler pulley, Maytag problems will usually be the front slide kit. GE/Hotpoint problems will usually be the front slide kit or rear drum center bearing.

  • It’s fairly common for the blower wheel to wallow out and rattle around on Maytags and Magic Chefs. This type of noise is most noticeable when first starting the dryer and then when the stopping it.

  • If the idler pulley bearing is burned out, you’ll usually hear a high-pitched squealing noise.

Takes forever to dry a load of clothes.

  • Dryer vent is too long, kinked/restricted, or full of lint. For best results, vent length should not exceed 12 feet.

  • Your dryer lint filter is clogged 

  • Check them operating thermostats!


Doesn't run at all.

  • No power at the outlet

  • The door switch is broken. Check the continuity using a meter

  • The thermal fuse is open. 

My electric dryer runs but it won’t heat up.

  • One leg of the 240 volts AC at the dryer outlet is missing.One leg can break disabling the heating element leaving the other leg to run the motor.

  • The heating element is open. Ohm it out. You should get between 12 to 35 ohms.

  • One of the thermostats are open. Check continuity.

  • Bad timer contact in heater circuit. 

  • Bad temperature selector switch​